A hoodie is one of the simplest garments to sketch and one of the easiest to get wrong in production. There's no complicated pattern or fine tailoring to hide behind — every decision about fleece weight, brush and construction shows up directly in how the finished piece feels, and how it holds up after twenty washes.
Fleece weight decides almost everything
| GSM range | Feel | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| 200–220gsm | Light, breathable, minimal bulk | Warm-climate hoodies, athleisure layering |
| 280–320gsm | The classic mid-weight hoodie feel | Everyday hoodies and crewneck sweatshirts |
| 340–400gsm+ | Heavy, substantial, premium hand-feel | Streetwear, premium fleece, cold-climate outerwear-adjacent pieces |
Three fleece constructions, three different looks
- Loopback (terry) fleece — the knit loops are left exposed on the inside rather than brushed, giving a slightly textured, more fashion-forward look and feel, often associated with premium streetwear.
- Brushed fleece — the standard hoodie fabric, where the inside loops are mechanically brushed into a soft, fuzzy nap. Warmer-feeling than loopback for the same weight, and the most common commercial choice.
- French terry — lighter than brushed fleece and left unbrushed, with a flatter, more breathable inside face. Common for warm-weather sweats and lighter-weight hoodies.
Construction details that separate cheap from good
- Cuff and waistband rib — 2x2 rib recovers its shape better over repeated wear than 1x1 rib, particularly at the cuffs, where stretching is constant.
- Drawcord — flat cord with a metal or reinforced tip lasts longer and threads more easily than round cord with a plain plastic tip, which fractures and frays with wear.
- Kangaroo pocket — bartack reinforcement at the pocket's stress points (top corners) prevents the most common hoodie failure point: a torn pocket seam.
- Hood lining — a jersey-lined hood sits better against the neck and doesn't pill as visibly as a self-fabric-only hood, at a small cost premium.
- Seam finishing — coverstitched hems and cuffs lie flatter and resist rolling better than a simple overlock finish, especially after repeated washing.
Fabric composition trade-offs
100% cotton fleece has the softest natural hand-feel but shrinks the most (commonly 5–8% on first wash if not pre-shrunk) and loses shape faster under repeated stretching. Cotton-polyester blends (typically 80/20 or 60/40 cotton-to-poly) trade a small amount of softness for meaningfully better dimensional stability and shrink control — the standard choice for consistent, repeatable commercial production. Higher poly ratios (CVC blends skewed toward polyester) push cost down further but reduce the natural cotton hand-feel customers associate with premium hoodies.
“Nobody returns a hoodie because the graphic was slightly off-centre. They return it because the cuffs went baggy or the fabric pilled after three washes — which is exactly where cutting corners on fleece and construction actually shows up.”
Frequently asked questions
- What GSM is a good quality hoodie?
- 280–320gsm is the standard commercial weight for a substantial, everyday hoodie. Below 250gsm feels light and less durable; above 340gsm moves into premium streetwear territory.
- What is the difference between French terry and brushed fleece?
- French terry is lighter and left unbrushed with a flat inside face, suited to warmer weather. Brushed fleece has the inside mechanically brushed into a soft nap, giving a warmer feel at the same weight — the standard hoodie fabric.
- What is the MOQ for custom hoodies?
- Typically around 500 pieces per style and colour at export factories, driven mainly by the fabric dye-lot minimum rather than sewing capacity.
- Is cotton or cotton-poly blend better for hoodies?
- 100% cotton has the softest feel but shrinks more and holds shape less well over time. Cotton-poly blends (commonly 80/20) sacrifice a little softness for meaningfully better shrink control and durability — the more common commercial choice.
We manufacture hoodies and sweatshirts across loopback, brushed and French terry fleece from 200gsm to 400gsm+. Send your reference and target price and we'll spec the fleece and construction that gets you there.