Before a single style is costed, one decision shapes almost everything downstream: does the factory source the fabric and trims, or do you? This is the real difference between full-package (FOB, sometimes called fully factored) and CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) manufacturing, and it's less about which is cheaper than about who is carrying supply-chain risk for your order.
CMT — you supply the materials, the factory supplies the labour
Under a CMT arrangement, you (or your fabric supplier) deliver fabric, trims, labels and packaging directly to the factory, which is responsible only for cutting, sewing and finishing. This gives you direct control over exact fabric sourcing and can save materially on material cost versus a factory's own markup — but it also means you're managing every supplier in the chain yourself. If one trim shipment is delayed, the entire production run stalls, and that risk sits with you, not the factory.
- Best suited to brands with an established fabric/trim supply chain, or specific material requirements a general factory can't source at the right spec.
- CMT factories are frequently smaller operations selling labour on thinner margins — a higher-volume client's order can deprioritise yours on the same line.
- Requires more logistics management on your side: multiple suppliers, multiple delivery windows, all converging correctly at the factory.
Full package (FOB) — one accountable partner for the whole order
A full-package factory sources fabric and trims itself, manages the entire production process, and delivers a finished, packed garment — you're buying a completed product, not factory labour hours. If a zipper shipment is delayed at customs, that's the factory's problem to solve, not yours. This removes the multi-supplier coordination risk of CMT entirely, in exchange for a higher per-unit price that reflects the factory's own sourcing and project-management overhead.
“The choice between full package and CMT isn't really about price — it's about where you want production risk to sit. CMT can cost less per unit; full package costs you less time and fewer points of failure.”
| CMT | Full package (FOB) | |
|---|---|---|
| Who sources fabric/trims | You | The factory |
| Typical cost per unit | Lower (no factory material markup) | Higher (includes sourcing + project management) |
| Supply-chain risk | Sits with you | Sits with the factory |
| Best for | Brands with an established supply chain or specific fabric requirements | Brands wanting one accountable partner and simplified logistics |
| Typical order scale | Often smaller, specialist runs | Scales more predictably with volume |
A hybrid middle ground exists
Some brands nominate specific fabric or trims (see our glossary's entry on nominated fabric) while leaving the factory to source everything else — capturing some of CMT's material control without taking on full supply-chain coordination. This is common where a brand has a signature fabric relationship worth preserving but no interest in managing trim suppliers as well.
Frequently asked questions
- Is CMT or full package (FOB) cheaper?
- CMT is usually cheaper per unit since you avoid the factory's material sourcing markup — but that saving comes with you taking on the coordination risk of multiple suppliers converging on time. Full package costs more per unit but consolidates that risk with the factory.
- What does CMT stand for in garment manufacturing?
- Cut, Make, Trim — a pricing and responsibility model where the factory is paid only for cutting, sewing and finishing labour, while the brand supplies all fabric, trims, labels and packaging.
- Which manufacturing model is better for a new brand?
- Full package is generally more forgiving for a first-time buyer, since the factory absorbs the sourcing and logistics complexity. CMT suits brands that already have supplier relationships or need a specific fabric a general factory can't match.
Sources
We work full package as standard, and can accommodate nominated fabric where it matters to your brand. Tell us which model fits your business and we'll cost accordingly.
Free tools for clothing brands
MOQ, pricing and AQL calculators, a GSM ⇄ oz converter, a fillable tech pack template and a manufacturing glossary — built by our sister company, Collective Studio, free to use.